First attempt at night shots

[MarkLawrence]

My first attempt at night shots yielded one fairly decent shot - I need to work on the editing...and...get the darned things to stand still for a few minutes!! :lol:

http://www.tavustheman.com/images/E170-C-FEIQ-KPBI-12292007.jpg

[T-Bird76]

Not bad Mark, what was your ISO setting and F stop? Keep the ISO to 100. Is that from West Palm for FLL? You should go to FLL one night once all the gates are full and get a nice wide angle shot of the CO and B6 terminal full of planes, if you can manage it the Delta terminal to. With the city in the background that would be a killer shot.

[MarkLawrence]

That was at PBI Tom - from the top of the parking garage. I used the standard night setting on my D50 - ISO turned out at 640 and it turned out a F/5.3. I'm still learning my camera - even after having it for over a year. I got out for 1/2 hour last night - living 10 minutes from PBI it was the easiest for a night shot trial. I'd love to try that at FLL with the city in the background.

[T-Bird76]

Mark don't use the night settings that are built into the camera always use manual. ISO 640 is going to give you to much noise and F5.3 is going to overexpose the shot. Use the camera's manual setting, ISO 100, and play with the F stops, the higher the F stop the less overexposued it will be but also the longer it will take to get a proper shot in the dark light.

I'd also recomend getting a handheld wired or wireless remote. I got a wired one for about 15 bucks, its worth it. Now when you take the shot set the shutter in manual mode to "bulb", what this will do is keep the shutter open as long as you're holding down the remote shutter, the shutter will close when you release it. Play with it a few times to see how long you need to keep the shutter open to get a proper shot.

Lastly check if your camera has a mirror lockup feature, if so turn it on and also noise reduction, turn that on as well. Then go have at it. REMEMBER though to shut mirror lockup and noise reduction off when you are done, you don't want them on when your shotting hand held in the day light.

[PhilDernerJr]

For still night shots, if you don't want the added cost of a remote shutter, I'd recommend a tripod and setting your camera's 2-second timer. It lets you aim and prep the shot, and then the camera takes the photo for you without shaking from your hands.

[T-Bird76]

For still night shots, if you don't want the added cost of a remote shutter, I'd recommend a tripod and setting your camera's 2-second timer. It lets you aim and prep the shot, and then the camera takes the photo for you without shaking from your hands.

I'm assuming Mark was using a tri-pod, Mark please tell me your using a tri-pod? LOL As Phil said if you don't want to buy a remote shutter use the timer. For $15 though you can't go wrong.

[MarkLawrence]

Thanks for the advice guys! Tom - yes - I was using a tripod - actually testing out my brand new tripod that I got for Xmas !! :)

[MarkLawrence]

I've just been reading the manual for my D50 again...and...a couple of observations/questions..

1. The D50 only has 4 ISO settings - 200, 400, 1200 and 1600 - I'll try 200
2. There is a wireless remote for the D50 for $14 - well worth the investment
3. Any Nikon people - I can't find anything on keeping the shutter open while holding the remote button down - anyone have any idea?
4. I have the menu Noise Reduction always on - what do the other Nikon users do??

[Derf]

Take two shots...one properly exposed and the second shot over exposed by a minimum by 1.3 stops of EV with EVERY night shot!

TRUST ME! You learning curve will change drasticly!


With any bright light, it will throw your camera way off..... Think of it this way, YOUR shot above is the same as shooting into the sun....everything is a little dark because of the light forward of the wing. If that was off, the picture would be brighter. It takes a while to get used to night time and the main probem is underexposure.... Take 2 everytime and when you are had home you will be supprised how many times you are using the overexposed images.

NEVER say it looks good because it is nice on your LCD. Your eyes will never be able to tell you if it is too bright or dark. You must use the histogram or your shots will be a stop darker than you think it is! That is why the nightshots looked sooo much better last night.

For a star like pattern on all lights...stop down your apature... F-16 gives a nice star pattern but you will usually need a remote for more than a 30 second exposure at 100ISO with most dark night shots.

I LOVE THE NIGHT

[lijk604]

One tiny miniscule comment, because I cant add anymore than what Fred (The Master of the Night) has already said...play with Photoshop and get rid of the yellow light colorcast.
Moose has a great example on this (hope you dont mind me posting Moose) :|
http://moose135.smugmug.com/photos/123425976-L.jpg

Where this was shot the light are all that ugly sodium yellow.
A little photoshop work helped tremendously.