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There is a 747 coming into Des Moines tomorrow at 0500,and was wondering what a starting point for camera settings would be. I use a Canon T3,and I'm not expecting great photos,but would like to be able to tell what it is. The lighting isn't the best as they are lights from a parking lot.
thanks,
Doug
If you've got a tripod, go for ISO100 and f/5.6 or so.
Otherwise, I'd probably go with the highest ISO that the grain can handle, AV mode at the widest opening...and pray.
Thanks,Jeremy. I'm always praying when I try night shots!Quote:
Originally Posted by jerslice
Doug
Doug,
Static shot or while it's flying? VERY DIFFERENT situations :smile:
For a moving plane, use your fastest lens wide open, highest ISO for your camera, TEST TEST TEST TEST TEST on everything before [it] comes in. Manual mode, overexpose a bit, daylight balance, RAW.
Pan and lock on that sucker as good as you can possibly accomplish... and as Jeremy said, PRAY :tongue:
Nikon D3, ISO 6400, 1/50th sec @ f/2.8
http://images3.jetphotos.net/img/3/9...1351460819.jpg
Out of about 25 shots, this one was the ONLY somewhat acceptable one.
I echo Manny's comments:
- is the aircraft going to be in the air or
- is it static
If its a night shot and the aircraft is on approach or departing I helps if you have a monopod or tripod to help you stabalize your camera. Definitely need to go with your highest ISO available and definitely shot in manual mode and RAW. Definitely practice your panning skills and make sure you are shooting in continuous mode as opposed to a single shutter release. Hope for the best!
For static I recommend shooting with a sturdy tripod and a shutter release cable and even with the
mirror in the up or lockup position. The less vibrations and
the less you have to touch your camera the better the image. Oh yeah....if its windy then it may not be worth shooting. For static shots I shoot in manual mode around f/8 or higher and the lowest ISO available which can be 100 to 200 for me and my shutter speed is around 5 seconds or more depending on the conditions.
One trick I have used for long exposures at night without a cable release or remote release is the "hat trick" where you use BULB mode on your cam, cover the lens with a hat (or whatever) and then open the shutter, uncover the lens for a predetermined time period, then cover the lens then trip the shutter. This reduces contact with the camera completely during the actual exposure to light.
And I forgot about the Monopod as mentioned by Mark... a must... I also use a mental/visual lock on the aircraft as it pans across. I ignore all other things like crop or zoom or anyting other than locking a particular spot on the plane inside the center AF sensor on my camera as I gently roll the shutter...