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Derf
2009-02-16, 02:19 PM
To better each other, I would like to bring up a question, do you guys think of the rule of thirds when you shoot?

(a Great photographer once told me that it does not matter if you give an SLR or a point and shoot or a disposable
camera, you will get a great picture becuause you do not need a good camera to take a great picture, you only
need the ability to frame the image... if you use rule of thirds to take every picture, you will hardly every find were
a centered image is better than an image where the rule of thirds is properly applied) ((Aviation is a little different
only for shots you want accepted to airliners or Jetphots))

THIS has been the influence on everything I do with a shutter button

Every time I pick up the camera, I go really fast thru a few quick things but always find that the rule of thirds is the
one thing that makes my style.

The lesson that changed me was when I was asked to take every picture for the next month using rule of thirds and
there will never be a picture that will be centered and look much better than the picture using rule of thirds (unless
you are framing). I worked for 3 weeks and finally found a centered image that looked better. When I took it to the
photographer, he smiled and said....How many pictures did you take before you were able to get a better one? and
then told me that every rule in photography must be broken to become a great photographer....I am still trying

Do you use rule of thirds, can you show us one example and explain why you feel it is rule of thirds?

Here is one of my shots
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/193611106_mKDtr-L-1.jpg
Horizon is a bit high for rule of thirds but the wheel is on the left 1/3 and the tower is on the right 1/3rd and framing
was also applied a tiny bit.

Here is more info on rule of thirds if you do not know of this, please let me know if this is worth it and I should
continue. If you do not agree, please post....This should be a learning thread for me to and I am trying to learn off
of this thread too.

Rule of thirds
http://www.megapixel.net/html/articles/composition.php

mmedford
2009-02-16, 10:20 PM
Good Information...

I learned something...what about us who started within aviation, and now want to take this photography thing even further?

People? Wildlife? Nature?

Thanks

Derf
2009-02-17, 12:12 AM
This is more about non aviation but it can be applied

this is only the first of more things as far as photography, I will update further things later... if you guys are interested there are lots of neat things. I want to first start with the Basics...

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/43590963_YgUwa-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/37508338_ToPcS-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/42106448_F3oXM-L-3.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/37517472_yX7CJ-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/285830749_AEiq4-L-1.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/62072356_oNeVX-M.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/422102426_xgfVs-M.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/280413940_T8yPF-M-1.jpg

Most of my images use rule of thirds of some kind.... Lets see some of your examples

h2opunk1822
2009-02-17, 10:54 PM
awesome info fred!!.. now all i need to do is find a reasonably priced starter camera to put that info to use

jerslice
2009-02-17, 11:23 PM
http://i.pbase.com/o2/79/885479/1/106430094.27YtXCPa.DSC05504.jpg

http://i.pbase.com/o2/79/885479/1/106429955.auEyoy8q.IMG_0489EXIF.jpg

http://i.pbase.com/o2/79/885479/1/106442747.3nhRWZuA.DSC06797.jpg

GrummanFan
2009-02-18, 01:22 AM
As much as I love airplanes, at least 75% of my photography has not been aviation related...

I do my best to give my pictures a lot of "depth" to them. Playing with depth of field adds quite a bit of life to a picture, makes it pop out more. I always move the camera about, try to place different things in the foreground and the background, play with lines and angles.

Not perfect, but it sorta works...
http://dfalk.smugmug.com/photos/457411210_YFDxA-L.jpg

http://dfalk.smugmug.com/photos/343877132_cJo7b-L.jpg

My old film camera actually had a guide frame built into the viewfinder so you could quite easily implement the rule of thirds.

Derf
2009-02-18, 02:13 PM
awesome info fred!!.. now all i need to do is find a reasonably priced starter camera to put that info to use

Actually, you can practice that with your camera phone! :borat:

Derf
2009-02-18, 02:20 PM
As much as I love airplanes, at least 75% of my photography has not been aviation related...

I do my best to give my pictures a lot of "depth" to them........

The first photo is not really rule of thirds but more framing. I will want to get more into that after rule of thirds and is an excellent example of a perfect framing. The second shot shows rule of thirds nicely.

any more examples of rule of thirds?

mirrodie
2009-02-18, 09:50 PM
Been cleaning out the closet of files once I tranferred them and found one.

http://www.nycaviation.com/hosting/IMG_0146.jpg

moose135
2009-02-18, 10:16 PM
You found that thing in your closet :shock: :shock: :shock:

How about this one, Fred:

http://moose135.smugmug.com/photos/94522005_zvwHF-L-1.jpg

The horizon (edge of the river) is at the lower third, the bridge tower is at the left third, and the span of the bridge draws your eye in from the corner down to where the two meet.

mirrodie
2009-02-18, 11:15 PM
NO Moose! I meant I am still cleaning computer files since moving them to the Apple!

I'd scream like MIKE and TOM if I saw that thing in my closet!

Derf
2009-02-22, 09:50 PM
Nice Examples Mario and Moose.... I like the advanced rule of thirds....it show how it can get complex quick!

FRAME

Creatively think of objects to use as a frame. Some examples include branches, windows, tunnels, doorways, and archways.
Anything that lets you look through one thing at another thing will make a good frame.

Use an interesting frame for your photograph. If possible use a symbolic object for framing your subject, something that has
a meaning in relation to the subject

Consider depth of field when working with a frame as a foreground object. Since you have a foreground object (the frame)
and a background object (the subject) you can chose your depth of field. Do you want your foreground to be in focus? If
so, then use a small aperture to keep the frame and subject in focus. Conversely, if you want only the subject in focus, use
a large aperture.

Keep the camera’s focusing and lighting sensors on the main subject. If possible, use a foreground frame that is a darker
object than the background. Expose for the subject in the background and let the frame darken.

Emphasize your subject. All framing directs the viewer’s attention to the subject, but you do not need to always go tightly
into the frame. You can leave the subject framed but still leave other objects around the edges of the photograph. In this
photograph the frame is a window, but you can still see the cannon around the edges of the photograph.

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/205615242_VFeu8-M-1.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/105930918_H23dV-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/37236273_M6TWL-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/37169274_Stca6-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/93858364_ogHqC-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/91888661_BbEqp-L-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/68555331_Ff9cs-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/37236288_9nqRF-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/37169214_tsRh2-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/37236219_ywUiQ-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/37503292_dVtoz-M-3.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/44790383_bPg9w-M-2.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/37235141_GytXN-L-4.jpg

I have not been able to use rule of thirds and this, it seems one or the other, I can not find an
execption....but I am sure there has to be one. Every rule in photography must be broken
in order to become better. I am still trying but it always seems wrong.....SO FAR :wink:
but I will keep trying!

moose135
2009-02-23, 12:05 AM
http://moose135.smugmug.com/photos/374898679_GkDLS-L-1.jpg http://moose135.smugmug.com/photos/478972114_y2FNj-L.jpg

How about a frame framing a frame, framing a frame...
http://moose135.smugmug.com/photos/473816870_RPZV7-L-1.jpg

Derf
2009-03-06, 08:43 PM
Thanks for the input Moose.... Those are nice examples and thank you for your post. Those are textbook framing. OK, Lets try a different trick. Balancing the light with a flash.

This is usually me yelling "there is a sunset" portraite time!

Everyone likes a good sunset shot
http://derf.smugmug.com/photos/486304774_6Pf2z-L.jpg
and the key is underexposure to get the look that most want. Here I am extreme and using Manual mode to get the look.



Now the Key for a nice portrait into the sun, or back lit, or not lit right....on and on

TV mode and get the shot right, but be at or under 200th of a second. (You will need this for later when you use
the flash)

This next shot is underexposed by a stop, it give the nice rich full color that I want as a backround. I should have
gone a little darker but will vary by taste. I was shooting almost directly into the sunset...just off to the side
http://derf.smugmug.com/photos/486304643_eExMt-L.jpg

Now the Key
Get the ISO, Speed, Apature and put those settings into manual mode on the camera....now your locked and should
be able to take the same exact shot again

Now pop up the flash, the flash will light the foreground (MODEL) and the camera is setup for the backround....the
TTL flash on the camera with dial up or down the right power to light the subject with the proper exposure yet the
flash will not help the underexposed backround.

http://derf.smugmug.com/photos/486304726_e4PVA-L.jpg
(these pictures were straight from the camera and previous to post processing)


http://derf.smugmug.com/photos/486314525_RP2dk-M.jpg
Processed


Not really a sunset but same concept of manual and using flashes to light the foreground, this one is one on camera,
one off camera and the sun is the the left of frame lighting the side. My off camera flash is the the right of the
camera 4 feet and 2 feet forward of the camera.
http://derf.smugmug.com/photos/96073419_qnGkv-M.jpg
We would be black if it were not for the flash
(this backround was not underexposed or it would look much better..I had just got my flash)



Like I said, I YELL when I see a nice sunset....ITS PHOTOTIME!!!!


A link on Strobist that explains what I am doing in much more detail
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/09/lighting-102-balancing-light-twilight.html

mirrodie
2009-03-06, 10:38 PM
Great thread Fred. highlights the minutiae that I sometimes take a lot of time to tweak.

Derf
2012-02-13, 12:31 PM
BRENIZER METHOD - LEARNING THREAD (http://nycaviation.com/forum/threads/40817-BRENIZER-METHOD-Post-your-Results?highlight=LEARNING+THREAD)
The Macro - LEARNING THREAD (http://nycaviation.com/forum/threads/41765-The-Macro-Thread?highlight=LEARNING+THREAD)
Looking to expand this thread a little bit.... should have more soon

Derf
2012-02-13, 01:09 PM
Flashing

There are 3 different ways I flash

1-Non Tripod Off camera
Using a flash (in my case 2) off camera and set the camera below 250th of a second (some rebels require 200th of a second). Previously I was using optically triggered flashes but recently I ordered radio poppers that do the job as well.

Here two flashes were at 45 degrees on tripods
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Aviation/American-Airpower-Museum/i-RGf6QMk/0/L/IMG0956-L.jpg

Here I did the same thing but looking at the nose you can see the off camera flash was off and the two flashes were at a 45 degree forward of the nose.
(TIP!) Anytime you see a persons picture, look in their eyes to see if there was a flash, soft-box or umbrella used. Eyes DO NOT LIE.
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Aviation/EA-6B-Last-Flight-Home/i-zBXM4D8/0/L/IMG0985-L.jpg


2-Long Exposure
This is easy, open the shutter and run around....the longer the shutter open the more ambient light seeps in. This is where people see me running around the ramp like an idiot getting winded.
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Aviation/Airshow-2011/i-kVDKwJj/0/L/A-10-Warthog-L.jpg

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Aviation/Airshow-2011/i-rs7Mdbm/0/L/IMG4820-L.jpg
as you can see there is a background on both the above images as it took a min or two to keep the shutter open. The longer your open the brighter the surroundings... You can usually control this if it is dark enough by running faster or leaving the shutter open longer. During Airshow, I am not a fan of this method...nor is my feet or heart.

3-sync speed to kill the backround and make it black
Last but not least....my latest fun, with the radio poppers and photoshop!!

In this example I walk around (NICE AND SLOW) while using the radio trigger on the flash, my camera and one in my hand to trigger both. Camera set to 250th of a second I walk around the aircraft and Pop it over and over. The AAM was in the backround of both of these images but I can easily kill the lights in the backround of the AAM by using the fast sync... (that was a composite of over 20 images to make one) then I merged it with an HDR to bring out the AAM
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Aviation/American-Airpower-Museum/i-G5jzH4g/0/L/L-39-dark-backround-3-L.jpg


Below is the tutorial on how I did it with photoshop
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/i-sPXCbq4/0/M/i-sPXCbq4-M.jpg (http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Videos/Video/10805949_BnbWKj#%21i=1667625309&k=w9t79HH&lb=1&s=L)
Video Click Here! (http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Videos/Video/10805949_BnbWKj#%21i=1667625309&k=w9t79HH&lb=1&s=L)


This second one I did an HDR and used it as the first image
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Aviation/American-Airpower-Museum/i-PsVs2wB/0/L/l-39za-L.jpg

I love to Flash, it is fun. I also like using my flashes in photography, that is fun too! Please comment or ask questions so I can see if anyone is really interested or if I am just wasting my time and I would be better off playing battlefield 3.

Derf
2012-02-13, 01:11 PM
Yongnuo RF-603C radio poppers


Poppin on a budget

I love off camera flash work and purchased 2 expensive flashes, the Sigma EF-500 DG Super and the Sigma EF-530 DG Super because of the off camera optical flash Capability. Optical means that when 1 flash fires from any camera, the Sigmas' will fire. It sucks when your at a wedding and you have it set to full power, it will take 7-8 seconds before the flash is charged enough before they are ready to fire. If I keep one flash on the camera, I can trigger the other flash without doing it where everyone is using my flash (But then I only have 1 flash off camera)


Downside 2 of my sigmas'

Line of site and distance. During the day it needs to be within 30 feet for it to work, your always having issues with distance but it did the job, Just not great. Line of site, I am always struggling with making sure the red face was facing my camera because just a little off and the flashes would not fire, the further away, the bigger the issue.

Shot triggered Optically from my 40D
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Sports/SBU-Seawolves-Team-Pictures/sbu1/763857038_CfEKZ-L.jpg



Pocket Wizards....the Cadillac of radio popper's.... If you have these you can tune to the right channel at MSG and fire a dozen strobes in the ceiling and strobe the entire area. This is what the pros use but they are like $250 a piece!!!! I would need one transmitter and 2 receivers and that is WAY over my budget. They are pretty reliable but because of the frequencies they work at the flash cap and charging may interfere with the actual shot leading to misfires. The misfires are not many and from what I have had and read it is about 1 loss in 25 popps but that also is VERY dependent on the equipment being used. The Pocket wizards are also TTL and that is a big plus.


http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Aviation/N707JT-at-Farmingdale-10-25-2/i-bkNsKXd/0/L/IMG2202-L.jpg

While shooting long exposure and using painting with light will not work with radio poppers like above, the photo below shows where your popping a subject, this is the perfect use and will same me LOTS of frustration due to Sigma's line of sight limitations. Also will allow $60 flashes to replace my $250 sigmas!!!
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Aviation/AAM-Pinup-Photoshoot-91811/i-m4tgzKq/3/M/IMG3803-M.jpg


EL CHEAPO - Yongnuo RF-603C radio poppers Quantity 4 for $65.00
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/i-LRXBJpm/0/L/i-LRXBJpm-L.jpg

Positive
VERY INEXPENSIVE
Can use as a wireless trigger (very long range trigger)
Each RF-603 can be Master, Slave or wireless trigger with included wire
VERY LONG RANGE 100 feet plus, some people have claimed up to 800 Feet but I do not believe it.


Negitive
No Lock for hotshoe (Cheap fix $5 lock on Ebay)
No TTL transmission

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/i-Gwvrctz/0/L/i-Gwvrctz-L.jpg


So far I am in love, Distance seems limitless, I can walk a block away and move my flashes...move just out of frame and click the trigger off, then move my flashes and pop it again and again and again! Sure, No TTL but from a block away I really am not going to use TTL as well! I can not wait for Hockey this weekend! This is going to rock!


I have 4, two for flashes, one for camera and one for a remote trigger. All four cost me $60 and 1 pocket wizard is $250!!!

http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/i-gqbDWWC/0/L/i-gqbDWWC-L.jpg

Having some more fun with my poppers
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/Sports/SBU-Seawolves-Team-Pictures12/i-8BftJCw/0/L/SBU-Hockey-Chris-Joseph-L.jpg

Loving my new triggers and have done a few shoots. It has really helped me creatively and made my life a lot easier. One thing about
them is that they do not have a hotshoe lock and I purchased for a few dollars a hotshoe lock from ebay
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/i-7562hGZ/0/L/i-7562hGZ-L.jpg

I would recommend only one type of rechargeable battery, Sony Eneloop battery are the best as they DO NOT LOOSE A CHARGE like other rechargeable batteries. These are important because the flash trigger uses very little power and your regular rechargeable batteries will probably die from non use as regular rechargeable battery will drain over time without use. The Eneloop batteries will retain 95% charge over a year!!!!! It is almost like alkaline batteries as it does not discharge. I find these batteries to be better than any rechargeable I have ever used.
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/i-PJNGxxq/0/M/i-PJNGxxq-M.jpg


Chargers For me there is only 1!!!
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/photos/i-3B2kpTh/0/L/i-3B2kpTh-L.jpg

Charge slow, medium or fast. This charger will discharge the entire battery and recharge if you choose... it will deep discharge, recharge and tell you what the mAh of the battery ACTUALLY is so you can see how good or bad your batteries are. It will refresh where it discharges and recharges over and over until there is no gain in performance to get the battery working as good as it possibly can!!! ( had 4 AA's getting abouit 200mAh and after a refresh was getting about 1200 mAh and that was 2 year old batteries that were useless...now they power remotes and my wireless mouse very well!!!

I love my LaCrosse Charger! I swear by it! Anyone else have it?

megatop412
2012-02-13, 10:23 PM
I use a couple SB-600's off camera when shooting for a friend's horror website:
http://media10.dropshots.com/photos/396780/20110410/151105.jpg
http://media11.dropshots.com/photos/396780/20110319/174749.jpg
http://media9.dropshots.com/photos/396780/20110514/r270_221154.jpg

megatop412
2012-02-13, 10:33 PM
I too love screwing with the off-center stuff:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5088/5201921045_3e10402ab6.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3408/3618780152_d2df635610.jpg
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4007/4396574649_86a93c6072.jpg

eric8669
2012-02-13, 11:27 PM
off camera flash.
http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/southpawcaptures/Becca-3438.jpg

gonzalu
2012-02-14, 12:05 AM
Love studio strobes!! Not that speedlights aren;t great and useful... but Studio strobes are oh so much more fun!! If you ever get the chance, go for it.

http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/image/74691646/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/image/93144141/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/image/90597806/original.jpg

Or no strobes... nothing but fluorescent tubes

http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/image/77147147/original.jpg

eric8669
2012-02-14, 12:07 AM
I spot Liz Ashley.... :) One of my favorites.

gonzalu
2012-02-14, 12:11 AM
This one used three Nikon speedlights in manual mode, fired via Pocket Wizard wireless triggers. One for the hair... one above and behind my camera and one main light to the left of the camera... reflector to the right...

If I only had time with a plane and I could light it myself the way I want to... oh what fun :tongue: and then you know why I am jealous of Fred and Moose!

http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/image/70836612/original.jpg

Two speedlights and a Nikon Coolpix point and shoot

http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/image/27352210/original.jpg

and no strobes at all... just pure plain twilight... pays if it is a little overcast!

http://www.pbase.com/image/141500502/original.jpg

gonzalu
2012-02-14, 12:18 AM
I spot Liz Ashley.... :) One of my favorites.

Although she has lost waaaay too much weight :-( She looks too thin now... but yeah, and fun to work with...